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Caviar Under Fire: Resilience Amid Conflict in Northern Israel

Amid continuous rocket attacks from Hezbollah, caviar producers in northern Israel remain determined to preserve their prized fish and the lucrative business tied to them.

By Jack NicasSource: nytimes.com1 min read
Caviar Under Fire: Resilience Amid Conflict in Northern Israel
Image via nytimes.com

In brief

Farmers face danger daily, yet the promise of millions in caviar keeps them committed to their work even as conflict encroaches.

In the heart of Kibbutz Dan, Israel, the tumult of war with Hezbollah has transformed a once-thriving area into a scene of desolation, yet a determined group of caviar farmers bravely continues to nurture their stocks. Assaf Koren, the owner of Caviar Galilee, recounts how shrapnel from ongoing hostilities has become an unwelcome companion in their fish pools, a daily reminder of the peril that surrounds them.The farming community, having endured a year and a half of aerial bombardments, clings to the belief that the effort is worthwhile. Koren reflects on the challenges of maintaining staff morale, stating, “Every morning I ask myself if this is the right thing to do — to ask the employees to come in again and again.” Despite the risks, he asserts the necessity of continuing operations, as the sturgeon produce ovaries that could yield around $40 million worth of unique caviar when harvested and processed.Though the environmental and emotional toll of the conflict weighs heavily upon them, productivity is vital. Just weeks prior, a Hezbollah rocket hit the processing facility, causing chaos but failing to deter the dedicated workers who returned the very next day. With a pistol tucked into his waistband for safety, Koren emphasizes the urgency of keeping the business alive in spite of the bombardments. He insists that “we must continue,” as the shimmering fish glide through their pools, waiting for a future where their potential can safely be realized.

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