In brief
An avalanche on Pakistan’s Broad Peak claimed ten lives, including celebrated Nepalese climber Nirmal Purja. Tributes poured in from Nepal’s prime minister, Purja’s family, schoolmates and fellow mountaineers, underscoring his impact on the hill culture. The incident also revived scrutiny of Purja’s past, amid sexual allegations he has denied. The mountaineering world mourns its loss while reflecting on his record of climbing the world’s 14 tallest peaks in six months.
Tributes are pouring out across Nepal after an avalanche killed all 10 members of an expedition on Pakistan’s Broad Peak, six of whom were Nepalese.
Nirmal Purja, known as “Nims”, was a British‑Nepali climber famed for summiting the world’s 14 tallest peaks in just over six months. His sudden death has shocked the global mountaineering community and rippled through Nepal, where he has long been celebrated for spotlighting Nepali climbing guides.
The Nepalese prime minister, Balendra Shah, expressed his mourning, saying Purja’s history of courage, dedication and contribution will always remain inspiring. Purja’s brother, Kamal, posted a touching tribute on Facebook: “I feel as though I have lost my whole world. My brother was not only my younger brother – he was my heart.” He added, “Although our hearts are broken, we are incredibly proud of you. Your legacy will live forever.”
Students and staff at the Small Heaven School in Chitwan, where Purja once studied, lit candles and mourned at a vigil. A student, Sarbagya Paudel, said, “Purja’s bravery has set a great example for our school. He made us proud and brought pride to Nepal.” His school hostel supervisor, Shailendra Baral, recalled the young boy as “fearless and committed to achieving something” and praised his honesty and obedience.
Bahadur Panta, another school friend, shared that countless people, especially those who had known him, prayed for him after news broke of his disappearance. He stated, “It was not only me and my friends. I think people all over the world who knew him prayed for him. But it was his fate, no one could avoid it.”
Social media flooded with tributes, describing Nepal’s mourning and the loss of a legend among great climbers. One comment noted, “Their legacy will live on.” The raise in global attention started after a 2021 Netflix documentary documented Purja’s record climbs.
The expedition also included other prominent Nepali climbers: Pur Bahadur Gurung, known as Yukta, who summitted Everest ten times; Kili Pemba Sherpa, part of a historic 2021 K2 expedition; and Uttam Lapraki, who paid homage to Yukta on social media. The group comprised six Nepalis and four foreigners from the US, China, Oman and Pakistan.
Purja’s background includes 16 years in the British military, with the first ten in special forces, and he was awarded an MBE in 2018 for his extraordinary high‑altitude achievements. He was the first Gurkha to climb Everest while serving in the British armed forces. Yet as his fame grew, allegations surfaced: a 2024 New York Times piece detailed accusations of sexual assault by two women—one claiming assault in a hotel room in 2023, another alleging misconduct during a 2022 K2 expedition; Purja denied the claims through his lawyer.
The tragedy underscores the inherent risks of high‑altitude climbing and has left Nepal’s mountaineering community to reflect upon a legacy interwoven with both immense achievement and controversy. The world watches as his name remains etched in the annals of climbing history, while his death remains a poignant reminder of the mountains' unforgiving nature.
